Easter island is that point of the world where to reach most difficultly. A small slice of a land in the middle of the ocean, a reminding isosceles triangle - about 15 km on each side and 20 km in the basis; to fly from any continent long enough, to float even longer. And nevertheless, our constant author Alexander Shulgin there has reached.
 My way to Easter island lasted 30 years. In the childhood in transfer which was called then «Club of film travellers», and in magazine «Round light» practically simultaneously I have come across the information on this place and "was ill" literally. Later, when me asked, where I wish to get most of all, I, not reflecting, answered: «To Easter island».
Europeans, from James Cook and Frenchman Laperuza before well-known Round Хейердала, visited and investigated this place time and again. The Dutch admiral Jacob Roggeven in a sunny day of a holiday of Easter, paternal island has opened it in 1722 and has received such name. On the native language local residents call it Rapa-Nui (Rapa Nui).
In Russia for the first time about Easter island have learnt in 1804 when Russian seafarers have reported on an imperial court yard on the strange statues of 20-metre growth standing on perimetre of island.
Certainly, everything, that is connected with this triangular slice of a land, resulted me in quivering expectation. Many people wrote about it as about an unusual place on the Earth, connected not only from an inconceivable origin giant idols «моаи», but also with all history of a civilisation.
Islanders always was a little, in XIX century the population totaled all 4-5 thousand persons, and now and that it is less than aboriginals, about two thousand. Except aboriginals on island there live Chileans. Local residents are close to a Polynesian nationality, but nevertheless it is other, separate, smallest nation, the nationality is faster even or, that is even more true, a tribe. Language on which the natives speak, not similar on one another, - gutturally-growling, чревовещающий - has made upon me indelible impression.
The island history is legendary. The king Jota Матуа (that on a local dialect "father" means) has descended on beach Анакена by one estimations in 400 year of our era, on another - in 800 year B.C. Whence it has come, it is not known: besides on one of versions - whence from Тонго, New Zealand, Polynesia, under the version of Round Хейердала - from Latin America. However the island nation is not similar to one of inhabitants of these places neither language, nor appearance, traditions. Thus in them there is something монголоидное.
Concerning occurrence of the well-known giants there is a legend according to which the governor has disappeared once, and guards of island were built and began to look out for it in a sea distance. On other legend моаи - live people who undertook from anywhere, have gone down from above together with the mysterious newcomer and when it was gone, have pending hardened. Also there are all bases to trust legends because at all minimalism of these sculptures of emotion in the fallen asleep expressions of persons of idols are seized is so thin, that becomes not on itself and it seems, that in a stone something is hidden live.
Their basic part costs on island perimetre, and all look in one point, everyone is simultaneously similar and is not similar to the neighbour, at everyone - the silent mimicry. It is surprising, as at that time there could be a similar technics of transfer of the most thin moods at such sizes of a statue. Really unique work of art!
I have spent four days on island. Certainly, was ill, as in the plane Paris-Santiago near to me fourteen and a half hours flied the certain Dane, suffering respiratory disease in the sharpest form. And it is natural, the peak of my cold has fallen to island visiting on which I dreamt to get all life. Otherwise also could not be. Sick and emaciated, got tired, I have risen on mountain to моаи, have leant against one of giants and have plunged into mad power. It not to tell words, it that it is necessary to experience... And I, certainly, have gone on the amendment.
The event only has confirmed my point of view that is in the place world where all is not simple so. The Same Easter island to which I went 30 years, has given me what I expected. IT is valid, how sounded fantastically, is - «having eyes yes will see, having ears yes will hear». And, despite all its history, the mentioned island could not have other name, than Easter island...
Unique, in general, the city on island Rapa-Nui is cheerful enough: the pair of thousand persons, but is a lot of cafe on seacoast with a tremendous kind where it is possible to try original, on what not similar dishes. At midnight it is still light, and consequently all open terraces of small restaurants are full of the people. People with pleasure sit, drink a local drink «писко сауэр» and, having assimilated to statues моаи, look afar for horizon, admiring with the most beautiful declines of Easter island.
Mass tourism, because of remoteness and dearness, here is not present. Only those who dreams to see the most unusual island in the world Here arrive, the most mysterious artefacts which and do not find while the answer. It is impossible to tell, that the local population benevolently concerns tourists (probably, it is connected by that constantly won island, colonized), however to tear off from them three skins will manage always.
Except contemplation of the unique nature and unusual statues on island to eat than be engaged: it is possible to fish, drive on horses. Outwardly they differ from ours «horses zealous» a little, but, as speak local коневоды to experience a difference, it is necessary to sweep. Local tourism is and tracking. It is possible to bypass on foot for a day all island, to walk on volcanoes.
Beaches Анакена are well-known for the is crystal white sand, green palm trees, turquoise water, and looking for you (that you suddenly has not covered with a wave) idols do them and at all unique. Ashore for you can prepare directly there and then on a brazier of a fresh lobster, сибас or any other local fish at your choice in the best traditions of island kitchen so, that you will by all means ask additives.
In Christmas on which my trip on island has had, to all other sights palm trees and local strange plants in fur-tree toys and garlands that looked rather unusually against fruit, colours, pools and sea waves have increased. And in the evenings national music, church chanting, костюмированные representations form in aggregate the show program, which for tourists, besides, rather впечатляюща.
So one of my main children's "dreams" to whom I went long and not always smoothly (many time for any of several reasons my way took away from Easter island) has come true. An essence of my story that everything, from big before small dreams, comes true. The main thing - really to want and go to the purpose. Well, and not to forget all time to look forward as it and do throughout millenia sacrally mysterious моаи.
Alexander Shulgin,
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